Ball Python (Python Regius)
Written and edited by Morphing Time Exotics LLC.
This is how we recommend you successfully raise a Ball Python in captivity. However, there is more than one way to successfully raise any species. So, if you hear information that slightly differs, it doesn’t necessarily mean they are wrong. Make sure to do follow up research and continue to learn every day.
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* General information
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Ball Pythons a.k.a. Royal Pythons, come from Western Africa. Mainly the countries Togo, Ghana, and Benin, but their range stretches much farther into Africa. They prefer grassland and open forests. They grow 3-5 feet long as males and around 4-6ft long as females, this is known as sexual dimorphism (because males and females mature and look different). They are the smallest species of African Pythons. Ball Pythons are crepuscular, meaning they are most active at dawn and dusk, and sleep during the day. There are many different colors & patterns which are referred to as morphs. Their lifespan is 20-30 years in captivity. Ball Pythons make a great first pet reptile for beginners.
*Housing & Husbandry
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Enclosures must be big enough for your Ball Python to stretch its entire body along two walls. It must have a water bowl, preferably on the cool side, and it needs multiple hides. One hide on the warm side, and one on the cool side. Most baby Ball Pythons will do better in a smaller enclosure until they are fully grown. If you start out with a bigger enclosure, using things such as plants, hides & other items to fill up the space will help your baby Ball Python feel more comfortable in a bigger enclosure. A 4’ x 2’ x 2’ PVC enclosure is what is recommended for a fully grown Ball Python.
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*Heating/Humidity/Lighting
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Ball Pythons need a gradient temperature meaning they need a warm side and a cool side in their enclosure. The warm side should be around 88-92 degrees F. Also known as their basking side. The cool side should be around 75-80 degrees F. One of the best ways to control the temperatures is to use a heat mat connected to a thermostat. The probe from the thermostat should be placed directly on the heat mat. The heat mat should be underneath of the enclosure and completely to one side, or in the back depending on the orientation of your setup. They require 55-65% humidity. You can increase the humidity by spraying the enclosure with water using a misting bottle. The best way to measure this is by using a hygrometer. As far as lights go, since Ball Pythons only come out mainly when it’s dark and spend the rest of the day in a burrow/hide, lights are not a necessity. You can provide a day and night cycle for it if you’d like, but if it has hides it will most likely be in them when the lights are on.
*Ventilation
Less ventilation provides more humidity, more ventilation provides less humidity. Ball Pythons have relatively high humidity requirements, so you want to provide just enough ventilation to encourage a small amount of air flow, all while achieving your desired humidity.
*Substrate (Bedding)
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The substrate you use should promote high humidity and give a surface to aide in the shedding process. We recommend a coconut husk substrate that has been moistened with clean water. It holds moisture very well and if maintained properly is very resistant to mold. As long as you spot clean any messes and aerate (stir up) any compacted substrate, you should have no issues with mold.
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*Feeding
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In captivity Ball Pythons eat small rodents such as rats & mice. You can feed your Ball Python a live prey item, or a frozen thawed prey item. If you choose frozen, then you will thaw it in hot water until the temperature of the prey is 90-98 degrees F, and not frozen internally. A Ball Pythons prey size should match/equal the biggest size of the Ball Python’s body. You should feed your Ball Python in the same enclosure that it lives in. If you take it out to feed, then every time you take out your snake, it will think there is a possibility for food and you’re more likely to get bit. Babies eat every 3-5 days. Juveniles and sub-adults eat every 7-9 days. And adults will eat about every 14 days. Some Ball Pythons from time to time will go “off food”. Some skip one meal, some do not eat for more than a year. The time varies from snake to snake. If your Ball Python does stop eating just make sure it stays hydrated and monitor its body weight. Babies are what you want to worry about the most if they stop feeding. Adults have more mass which equals more resilience. On rare occasion you may have to try to assist feed a baby if it goes too long without food.
*Shedding
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Most Ball Pythons shed their skin every 4-6 weeks. As long as you keep your humidity in the correct range, then you shouldn’t have any troubles with this process. Their colors will start to dull & their eyes become cloudy/blue. Most Ball Pythons do not have a problem shedding on their own. But if they do, and they end up with stuck shed, something you can do to help the process is soaking them in warm water that is 80-85 degrees for 30 minutes to 1 hour, and then gently assist in peeling the shed back from head towards the tail. If soaked properly the remaining shed will slip right off.
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*Common Health Issues
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Snakes like any living creature may encounter certain health issues and risks. The most common things to keep an eye out for are mites, respiratory infections, and nidovirus. Mites are a parasite, think of it as a snake flea. There are various different ways to prevent and treat mites, the main thing we use is a topical Ivermectin treatment that requires a specific method for application. A respiratory infection can be spotted when you hear wheezing or see drool consistently. Respiratory infections should be handled by a vet and they will most likely prescribe an antibiotic. Nidovirus is the most deadly of the mentioned illnesses. They have tests you can give to check for nidovirus. Unfortunately most snakes parish from this illness, it causes a more severe upper-respiratory or oral infection, so veterinary expertise is a must if you hope for a chance of survival.
*Helpful Tools
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-Laser Thermometer
-Snake Hook
-Feeding Tongs
-Locking Lid Transport Tote with Ventilation
-Rubber Gloves
-Digital Thermometer and Hygrometer for inside the enclosure
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We hope this guide has been helpful and leads you to success. Remember that there is more than one way to be successful and these are just our recommendations.